Carousel: French cuisine in Ra'anana strictly four gourmets

Stephane, the proprietor, chief cook and bottle washer, made aliyah from Paris 24 years ago, bringing with him the know-how to provide authentic gourmet dishes to Israeli Francophile diners who appreciate the good life.

Invited recently for a return visit, we sat outside one cool summer evening, and our very helpful and efficient waiter turned out to be Stephane’s son, Leo, taking a day off from his army service in the intelligence unit of the IDF.

We began our meal with two soups, French onion (what else?) and bouillabaisse, the Provençal fish soup which usually contains all kinds of forbidden fruits of the sea, but this one was kosher (NIS 35 for all soups).

The onion soup had a good, rich flavor, and also the authentic touch of toasted baguette slices topped with melted cheese.

The fish soup was made from an assortment of white fish, but obviously not those used in the south of France. It was red and spicy and thick, a warming soup for a chill summer evening. The accompanying rouille (a paste of spices, olive oil and egg yolk) added a very exotic touch. Accompanying the soups were homemade toasted brioches.

With the edge taken off our hunger, we waited for our main courses. I had decided to eschew a fish meal and chose the fondue instead. My companion chose the sea bass fillet with assorted vegetables grilled antipasti style.

I was thrilled with my choice. I love any form of melted cheese, and this cheese sauce had a generous helping of wine and spices to liven it up. I liked the whole mise-en-scène (production), with the cheese sauce keeping hot on a small paraffin stove on the table, the chunks of toasted bread for dipping and the long, slender forks for spearing the bread and dipping in the pot. A green salad with a sharp vinaigrette dressing made a good contrast.

My companion tucked into his choice of grilled sea bass fillet, served with gratin dauphinoise (sliced potatoes in fresh cream) and the now rather hackneyed grilled vegetable antipasti.

Stephane insisted we also taste his risotto, which we happily did, enjoying the sublime taste of truffles faintly discernible in the dish.

After a suitable break from eating in which the garrulous Stephane told us his life story, we felt we could proceed to dessert.

By now my readers know that if there is a crème brûlée on the menu, I don’t look for anything else. This one was a perfect specimen of the prototype – creamy, not too sweet and with a crusty sugar topping.

My companion chose profiteroles, choux pastry rolls filled with fresh cream and glazed with chocolate.

Both desserts, accompanied by a good cappuccino, made a perfect coda to this outstanding meal.

Price for set three-course meal – NIS 149.