Kapuza’s food menu comprises mostly familiar categories, but with some unique twists of his own, based on his approach to cuisine hat he calls “fast fusion.” Its eight sections are: Grilled Cheese Panini (NIS 32-52), Sandwiches (NIS 28), Individual Quiches (NIS 30), Salads (NIS 35), Panzerotti (NIS 15-22), Pizzas (NIS 45-53), Sides (NIS 17-26) and Sweets (NIS 5-15). Like NOLA, there are quite a few vegetarian options, but limited vegan ones.
Clearly, the section presenting the most difficult choices – judging from the mouthwatering pictures on the menu – is the one that leads the menu off, probably not by chance. Of the eight selections, I chose the one open-faced option among them, the Scrambled: a slice of buttered toast spread with guacamole, on which was piled a mound of soft-boiled eggs with heavy cream and melted cheese, littered with shards of lamb bacon. This extravagantly rich indulgence was worth every last fat- and cholesterol-laden calorie.
Half of the four sandwiches also revolve around eggs, but the restaurant left my sample out of my order, so I’m afraid I cannot describe any of them. But they all look like great value for their very reasonable price.
There are only three quiches, of which I tried the spinach and cheese (cheeses, actually). This was a very good filling in a flaky crust with a hint of sweetness; it was served with a small side salad that was a refreshing counterpoint.
The four salads include two that seem quite distinctive. I whittled my choice down to the Quinoa Pasti, a generous portion of the ancient grain studded with chickpeas, zucchini, eggplant, sweet potato, parsley, caramelized onion and small cubes of mild feta cheese, all drizzled with a slightly tangy olive oil dressing. Overall, a hearty and satisfying dish, and once again, one that represents good value.
Panzerotti – Italian calzone that are fried instead of baked – is not something you find in many places in Israel. To add to this uncommonness, the fillings here are alternatively savory and sweet, so naturally, I tried one of each.
The Asado panzerotto was a golden-brown, chewy turnover stuffed with a ragout of short ribs and Parmesan, a filling that was a delicious combination that was new to me.
Its sweet counterpart, meanwhile, my dessert, was a rich Nutella ganache. I am not generally a fan of the ubiquitous Nutella, but this mousse-like version was exceptionally good, and it paired nicely with its tightly sealed doughy pocket.
Street Chef
Not kosher
24 Ibn Gvirol St., Tel Aviv. Phone: (054) 826-6260
Online delivery menu: wolt.com/en/isr/tel-aviv/restaurant/street-chef
The writer was a guest of the restaurants.