Street Chef - A welcome addition to the casual food scene

Kapuza’s food menu comprises mostly familiar categories, but with some unique twists of his own, based on his approach to cuisine hat he calls “fast fusion.”

Street Chef (photo credit: EITAN WAXMAN)
Street Chef
(photo credit: EITAN WAXMAN)
Israeli foodies have long been familiar with Chef Liroi (aka Leroy) Kapuza, author of the food, recipe and restaurant blog Chef Book. Recently, he took the plunge and finally opened an eatery of his own – Street Chef – right before the second lockdown.
Kapuza’s food menu comprises mostly familiar categories, but with some unique twists of his own, based on his approach to cuisine hat he calls “fast fusion.” Its eight sections are: Grilled Cheese Panini (NIS 32-52), Sandwiches (NIS 28), Individual Quiches (NIS 30), Salads (NIS 35), Panzerotti (NIS 15-22), Pizzas (NIS 45-53), Sides (NIS 17-26) and Sweets (NIS 5-15). Like NOLA, there are quite a few vegetarian options, but limited vegan ones. 
Clearly, the section presenting the most difficult choices – judging from the mouthwatering pictures on the menu – is the one that leads the menu off, probably not by chance. Of the eight selections, I chose the one open-faced option among them, the Scrambled: a slice of buttered toast spread with guacamole, on which was piled a mound of soft-boiled eggs with heavy cream and melted cheese, littered with shards of lamb bacon. This extravagantly rich indulgence was worth every last fat- and cholesterol-laden calorie. 
Half of the four sandwiches also revolve around eggs, but the restaurant left my sample out of my order, so I’m afraid I cannot describe any of them. But they all look like great value for their very reasonable price. 
There are only three quiches, of which I tried the spinach and cheese (cheeses, actually). This was a very good filling in a flaky crust with a hint of sweetness; it was served with a small side salad that was a refreshing counterpoint.  
 The four salads include two that seem quite distinctive. I whittled my choice down to the Quinoa Pasti, a generous portion of the ancient grain studded with chickpeas, zucchini, eggplant, sweet potato, parsley, caramelized onion and small cubes of mild feta cheese, all drizzled with a slightly tangy olive oil dressing. Overall, a hearty and satisfying dish, and once again, one that represents good value. 
Panzerotti – Italian calzone that are fried instead of baked – is not something you find in many places in Israel. To add to this uncommonness, the fillings here are alternatively savory and sweet, so naturally, I tried one of each. 
The Asado panzerotto was a golden-brown, chewy turnover stuffed with a ragout of short ribs and Parmesan, a filling that was a delicious combination that was new to me. 
Its sweet counterpart, meanwhile, my dessert, was a rich Nutella ganache. I am not generally a fan of the ubiquitous Nutella, but this mousse-like version was exceptionally good, and it paired nicely with its tightly sealed doughy pocket.    
Street Chef 
Not kosher 
24 Ibn Gvirol St., Tel Aviv. Phone: (054) 826-6260 
The writer was a guest of the restaurants.