Par Derriere combines high culinary standards with a cozy atmosphere and authenticity.
By SHAWN RODGERSPar Derriere(photo credit: AVIV SHAKOURI)
If you love wine and a relaxing, fun place to sip and catch up with friends, Par Derriere is the place for you.Known for many years among Tel Aviv locals as the “secret garden” wine bar, Par Derriere moved over two years ago from its location behind a graffiti-decorated red door on King George Street to the Noga neighborhood in Old Jaffa. We had the pleasure of sitting in the charming garden in the back.Par Derriere combines high culinary standards with hominess and authenticity. The menu – which features fish, seafood, meat and pasta dishes – is eclectic but with a Mediterranean touch. And it’s clear that careful thought is put into each dish to produce esthetic, creative and delicious results. The tasty dishes are complemented by the finest selection of wines, both local and international.Our lovely waitress immediately picked up on our likes and dislikes regarding wine and made solid recommendations that enhanced our evening.Our meal opened with some excellent starters. We began with the buffalo mozzarella salad (NIS 48). I really enjoyed the buffalo mozzarella and thought it really hit that nice blend of tart and creamy. Every component added to the overall experience from a flavor and texture standpoint.This was followed by the sea bass sashimi (NIS 58) in a vinaigrette yuzu and wasabi and ginger confit. I’ve been to a couple of restaurants where I would order a serving of sashimi and would receive meager cuts. However, these guys weren’t stingy with their cuts, and each slice was fresh and succulent. They melted in my mouth, and the presentation was simple and elegant.Next up was the cauliflower salad (NIS 52). I’m a sucker for any cauliflower dish. The cauliflower with herbs and chili was flavorful and delicious. I loved the addition of the pecans and the hint of sweet citrus.In between, we were delighted with a bottle of chardonnay from Sphera Winery. This is a fine example of top-quality Israeli wine: fruity with vibrant acidity, clarity and precision. Absolutely delicious.We were then presented with the Florentine pizza (NIS 54). Legend has it that pizza Florentine was invented as a breakfast pizza in Italy, but it is often eaten today as an unadorned single-course meal. Flavorful is an understatement for this dish. The crust was crisp and cooked perfectly throughout, and the fresh ingredients were applied afterward. With a mixture of spinach, bechamel sauce, Parmesan cheese, white truffle oil and topped with a perfectly cooked egg that oozed a golden runny yolk, it was wonderful.After a bit of a breather, it was on to the mains. First up were the shredded beef sliders (NIS 68). The beef was melt-in-your-mouth heavenly, while the fries were very thinly sliced, resulting in a wonderful crunch and minimal greasiness.This was followed by the beef fillet (NIS 136). The high quality of the meat was evident in the taste of the food. It was cooked perfectly. Normally I have to add a lot of salt to my fillets to bring them up to my preferred salt level, but this was seasoned with basic salt and pepper perfectly, no extra seasoning needed. The fillet came with a side dish of trufffle-infused mashed potatoes which were smooth and creamy.We ordered hot drinks and took another breather. Then came dessert. We opted for the dark chocolate mousse and tiramisu (NIS 38 each), which was a perfect end to the meal.Par Derriere is a cool oasis and hopefully will continue to be so for years to come. It is the ideal spot for a relaxed evening in the company of a few friends looking for a good time and a great meal.The writer was a guest of the restaurant.Par DerriereNot kosher 7 Bat-Ami Street, Old JaffaTel: (03) 629-2111
