By BUZZY GORDONThe Angus steakhouse(photo credit: PR)
It just takes one look at the red, marbled steaks in the showcase window of the new Angus butcher shop in Tel Aviv to whet your appetite for a thick, juicy steak. Fortunately, the remedy is just a quick walk around to the plaza on the other side of the storefront, where the newly opened Anguserie – the first branch of the popular northern steakhouse chain outside of the Galilee – is now pleasing customers in the center of the country.There are six specialty cocktails to choose from while perusing the menu, as well as three icy cold beers on tap. The spicy margarita (NIS 34) is the classic tequila and lime drink on the rocks, laced with a healthy dose of chili pepper; only people with a high tolerance for fiery heat will enjoy this bracing cocktail.The menu categories comprise Angustarters, Angusteaks, Angus Lite Dishes, Angus on the Bone, Burgers and Lamb. With the exception of two chicken and one tofu options among the lite dishes, and eggplant and cauliflower among the starters, the entire menu is beef or lamb.The starter recommended to us by our waiter was the brazoli (NIS 33), razor thin slices of beef cured in-house and served with a baked cherry tomato relish. Despite the similarity in name and even appearance to bresaola, the taste is nothing like the Italian air-dried beef: The version of this delicacy at Anguserie ranks among the finest carpaccio or roast beef I have had in any restaurant.The brazoli also went well with the house bread (NIS 16) – soft rolls reminiscent of ciabatta, served with herbed butter, a dip of tehina seasoned with smoked paprika and a mild tomato salsa that is as good as you would find in a Mexican restaurant.The short ribs at Anguserie – which our waiter referred to as asado – come in two very different versions. As a starter (NIS 28), the slices of veal were crisped on the grill and served atop a chunky potato salad. The crust on the meat sealed in the natural juices, while its pairing with the gently seasoned potato salad was an inspired combination.The asado on the bone, meanwhile, is a substantially larger dish (NIS 89). Designated on the Hebrew menu as “the chef’s favorite,” the short ribs are slowcooked until tender, and then grilled. Once I maneuvered around the copious layers of fat, I was rewarded with savory meat that fell off the bone and melted in the mouth.From the lamb section of the menu, we sampled the kabobs (NIS 45). These unassuminglooking patties of ground lamb turned out to be the sleeper item on the menu. Perfectly seasoned, they exploded into flavor with each bite.Our Angusteak selection was the sirloin (NIS 109): 300 grams of a choice cut, expertly grilled medium rare. Juicy and flavorful, this was a particularly succulent steak.The veal, lamb and beef all went nicely with the house wine (NIS 28/110), an Australian Cabernet- Merlot blend, bottled under Angus’s own private label.All main courses at Anguserie come with a choice of side: French fries, mashed potatoes, a green salad, or Anguslaw – an Asian coleslaw.Strangely, the Tel Aviv restaurant opened without its dessert menu in place. Reportedly, there will be three Western and two Middle Eastern desserts to choose from, ranging from NIS 18 to NIS 35.With no lack of fine steakhouses already in Tel Aviv, one might wonder whether there is a need for yet another one. At the very least, Anguserie brings a welldeserved reputation for excellence and a number of dishes that represent superior value.The writer was a guest of the restaurant.AnguserieNot kosher20 Ha’arba’a Street, Tel AvivTel: (03) 771-5733