Rediscovering Israel's hottest drink: Vermouth takes over Tel Aviv

From a trendy bar to your home, explore the allure of vermouth, the refreshing aperitif capturing Tel Aviv's spirit. Talia Levin shares local favorites.

  (photo credit: Gruppo Campari)
(photo credit: Gruppo Campari)

About two years ago, everywhere you looked, there was an array of gins, and gin and tonics transformed from bitter English granny drinks to something every woman orders at a Tel Aviv bar. I, too, got caught up in the trend. Gin and tonic became my go-to aperitif, the first drink after work.

But lately, I've been craving something new, something to reignite my excitement. So, I set out to find my new drink for the near future. It took a while until I fell in love with a drink that had never been my go-to alcohol, vermouth, until it became something I simply can't do without.

It's a classic drink that has conquered Tel Aviv in the past year. I've counted more than three vermouth bars within the radius of my home. If vermouth were a plant, its blooming season would be at its peak.

What is vermouth? It's a spiced and fortified wine, not necessarily very sweet. An aperitif known since ancient times. Its original purpose as an aperitif was to stimulate the appetite before meals, or in my case, to whet the appetite before drinking.

It makes perfect sense that vermouth's resurgence is happening specifically in Israel and particularly in Tel Aviv, the humid city where for most months of the year, one needs something cool, light on the stomach, and refreshing that suits both day and night.

How to drink vermouth

Of course, you can consume it as part of a cocktail, but if you visit vermouth bars popping up like mushrooms after the rain, such as "Vermuteria" and "Hakosit," you'll get them neat, with ice and a slice of orange. By the way, it's not just red we're dealing with; there's also white and rosé vermouth. And that's a matter of taste. Just a little tip: when you order vermouth, set aside any preconceptions.

What comes to mind for anyone raised in the nineties is primarily Martini & Rossi, maybe Lillet too. But the vermouth industry has blossomed beautifully in recent years, and there are several Israeli brands that I always order first when I see them on the menu.

  (credit: Zur Lester)
(credit: Zur Lester)

Vodka 52

I tasted Eyal Drori's vermouth for the first time at his and Gil Arzi's ("Molly's Spirits") bar Stanley. It was the first time I dared to venture out of my comfort zone and taste something I was accustomed to drinking only in cocktails.

I knew Eyal, who goes out to nature, collects various wild herbs himself, and distills wonderful spirits with sharp flavors and full of taste and aroma from the forest.

As mentioned, I approached vermouth somewhat suspiciously, mainly because of old opinions, until Eyal poured me the vodka, neat as he is even without ice. That's where the addiction began.

  (credit: SCREENSHOT/WALLA!)
(credit: SCREENSHOT/WALLA!)

Julius, Galilee's Vermouth

Yubal (Joob) Hargil, is one of the alcohol wizards who distill almost any raw material that exists in nature into a potent drink. Julius's vermouth is a classic Israeli with a unique twist, and it's a very dry vermouth compared to classic vermouths.

It contains the essence of the Galilee, in taste and aroma of wild herbs from vineyards in the Galilee, dried citrus peels, and all the goodness of local nature. In short: a bit of ice and you're set.

  (credit: SCREENSHOT/WALLA!)
(credit: SCREENSHOT/WALLA!)

Dalton Winery, Extra Dry Vermouth

I was surprised to discover that Dalton Winery also makes excellent vermouth. "Extra Dry," based on Semillon grapes. It includes Mediterranean spices, chamomile flowers, cedar needles, and a blend of citrus fruits. It's an aromatic, dry vermouth, with its aromas very dominant to my taste, making it a very refreshing and enjoyable drink for a Saturday afternoon, especially in this heat.

  (credit: SCREENSHOT/WALLA!)
(credit: SCREENSHOT/WALLA!)