Alone in the desert: The winter experience you didn’t know you needed

Winter is without a doubt the right time to visit the desert. While many parts of the country are dominated by cold, rain, and traffic congestion, the desert air clears and becomes exceptionally crisp, and the Negev Highlands reveal themselves as a surprising gem with almost European scents. After a few days of rain, visibility is sharp and clear, the landscape stretches into the distance, the ground is firm and comfortable for walking, and the winter sun gently caresses the body with an addictive, delicate warmth.

This is a perfect time for couples who want to escape the daily hustle, take a break from flickering screens, and reconnect with themselves and with their partner – within the silence, space, and power of the desert. We packed a cozy fleece, good walking shoes, a romantic mood – and set out to make love in the desert and with the desert.

There is something mesmerizing about driving south in winter. The farther you get from the gray, congested center, the more the clouds disperse and the sky opens into a deep, bright blue – the kind you can encounter only in the desert winter. For those who choose not to shut themselves indoors by a heater or head north to the green landscapes, the Negev offers a refreshing, flavorful, enjoyable, and remarkably diverse alternative. And as you may have already guessed – when the desert calls us, we answer. That is how we set out to discover the winter magic between craters and vineyards, and returned – how could we not – in love.

We started the morning with a surprising and enjoyable trail: The Lotz Cisterns, which were dug already in biblical times for shepherd and nomadic populations who lived in the high Negev during the days of the Kingdom of David and Solomon. These cisterns were intended to collect rainwater for ancient farmers and were dug at an elevation of about 950 to 1,000 meters above sea level – an area that receives slightly more precipitation than the desert around Mitzpe Ramon. The cisterns are lined with stones, dug deep into the ground, and after the rainy season the water is preserved in them for many long months. Their appearance resembles small, aesthetic swimming pools in the heart of the arid desert – an especially uplifting sight. A light and magical path passes between the cisterns, allowing for a relaxed and impressive stroll, and above all one that photographs beautifully.

Thanks to the high elevation, the desert soil around the Lotz Cisterns is already covered at the beginning of winter with a soft green blanket, and in the coming month it will also be possible to notice the first buds of blooming. We chose the short route – about three kilometers of flat, pleasant walking, suitable for any fitness level, and especially one that allows couple’s romance without unnecessary panting. The combination of cold water, green views, and cool air that reddens the cheeks creates the perfect setting for a small morning picnic with a camping stove or a coffee thermos and cookies, just before moving on.

Desert romance almost requires a glass of wine, preferably one born in the desert itself. The wine industry of the Negev Highlands is an impressive success story of the past decade, and in winter it offers particularly intimate experiences. We stopped at Carmey Avdat Winery – a lone farm that is a modern Zionist dream come true. The farm, established on the remains of an ancient Nabatean estate, offers a warm and indulgent refuge in the heart of the desert expanse.

We entered the intimate tasting room, where we were welcomed with smiles and intoxicating aromas of wine aging in barrels. There is something about desert wine – perhaps the dryness of the soil or the cold of the nights – that gives it a bold and unique character. We tasted a local Cabernet Sauvignon, rich and warming, perfectly suited to winter days. Sitting מול the view of bare vineyards waiting for spring, with a glass of red wine in hand – this is romance at its finest. Those who wish to take a souvenir home are welcome to fill the trunk with a few good bottles.

For a midday meal we chose to pamper ourselves with a woman who is a local legend: Iris Fulton. Iris is far more than a host – she is a culinary institution and a talented chef. Her place, which combines a carefully designed desert suite alongside invested home-style meals, is exactly what a couple needs to feel that someone is truly thinking about them. Hosting at Iris’s place gives a sense of intimacy. The suite is tastefully designed, with artistic touches and attention to the smallest details, but the highlight is the food. Iris cooks from the heart – local, seasonal, and fresh cuisine that changes according to her mood, what grows in the garden, and what arrived from the market.

We sat down to a meal that was a celebration of colors and flavors: A thick, comforting orange soup that opened the appetite; fresh salads with local herbs; and long-cooked stews that spread the scent of home throughout the space. This is not distant gourmet food, but food with a soul – the kind where you feel the hand that cooked it in every bite. For those who choose to also stay overnight at Iris’s magical place – we recommend it wholeheartedly. Our schedule forced us to keep wandering, so we parted with a sense of satisfaction and continued to the final experience, which would seal for us a perfect day of romance and couple rejuvenation.

To finish the perfect day, we looked for an experience that would release the muscles and fill the soul. We arrived at the pioneering community of Retamim, near Kibbutz Revivim and Route 222, and there we discovered a true gem – Watsu treatments in warm water. The transition from the cold outside to the warmth of the pool was a liberating and indulgent moment, one you want to repeat again and again.

Watsu is a treatment in which the therapist supports the body, floats it through gentle circular movements, performs stretches and pressure, all while you are floating in complete weightlessness, eyes closed and ears under water. It is hard to describe the feeling in words: Time disappears, the body becomes light, and the silence beneath the water clears the mind of everyday noise. For couples, this is a strengthening and deepening experience that peels away tension and brings you into a state of complete calm. As evening fell, we realized there was no choice – the day was over, and it was time to head back north. We left floating, wrapped in robes, with the feeling that the outside world had paused for a moment.

Winter in the Negev is not a compromise – it is a choice. The magical day we experienced stands completely alongside wonderful experiences we have had on many trips abroad. It was a short but powerful opportunity to see a pleasant desert, breathe deeply, eat well, and fall in love again. Simple, accessible, and precise. Forget flights and headaches – get in the car and drive south.