A new restaurant in Haifa is redefining Italian cuisine

Talpiot Market is no longer just a Haifa story. The scene that has developed there attracts, on days that are not wartime, crowds who come especially from outside the city, turning a once-neglected area into one of Israel’s most intriguing culinary hubs.

Behind this revival, particularly around Lunz Street, stands Shay Erel, who in recent years has built a precise and intentional culinary ecosystem. It began with The Thai in the Market, which quickly became one of the most prominent spots in the local scene and drew a wide audience from beyond Haifa. Then came The Thai Bar, a natural extension of the brand, followed by Melissa, an Italian-style café that opened across from the restaurant. And three months ago, The Italian in the Market joined in, deepening the Italian line and completing the move. Four venues, all along the same axis, all under the same management, and behind them a restaurateur who understands not only food, but also audience and timing.

The two main kitchens are led by the same chef, Guy Blau, the son of chef Wissitinissangsuan, and they work together at the Thai restaurant. The transition between the Thai and the Italian sharpens the contrast between approaches: From the rich, spicy, and complex Thai kitchen to a restrained, precise Italian cuisine that honors the fresh ingredients of the surroundings.

The Italian in the Market does not try to be a classic restaurant in the conventional sense. It opens out to the street, with half of its seating spread across the sidewalk, the kitchen fully exposed, and no reservations available. This is not an intimate experience, but rather a lively, noisy place that connects directly to the pulse of the market. The crowd is diverse - young people, families, workers - and on days that are not wartime, the long line testifies to the quality of the food, with people waiting patiently until a table becomes available.

The menu continues this clear line. There are no pizzas, no meat or fish dishes on the regular menu, and the pasta is not made in-house. Blau chooses high-quality dried pasta, based on the idea that it better suits the sauces he prepares. This is not an obvious choice in the local scene, but it clearly defines the place’s identity.

The meal opens with dishes based on relatively simple ingredients, treated with care. Fresh ricotta from The Small Dairy, served with olive oil jam, honey, and chili oil, is a delicate yet present dish that highlights the quality of the ingredient without overwhelming it. NIS 39.

Alongside it comes a crispy focaccia, with browned edges and an airy texture. It’s not just an addition but part of the experience - a focaccia meant for dipping and opening the table. NIS 24. The Sicilian salad, with crunchy fennel, fresh orange, olives, and chili, stands out Specifically because of its simplicity. The combination of flavors is precise, refreshing, and unpretentious. NIS 49.

The pasta section is relatively limited, featuring four regular dishes and a daily special: Spaghetti al limone with butter and lemon zest, spaghetti al pesto Genovese with stracciatella and pine nuts, spaghetti in a classic tomato sauce, and macaroni in a tomato, cream, and vodka sauce, which was excellent. NIS 69. The portions are not large, the sauces are not heavy, and the flavors remain clean and restrained - closer to the Italian original and less like the overloaded local versions.

This very choice - not trying to please everyone - is what sets the place apart. This is not a kitchen that tries to impress forcefully, but one that knows exactly what it wants to be. Prices also remain within a reasonable range compared to the local scene and do not exceed current standards.

Among the small plates, two dishes stand out. The roasted beet salad with burrata, pickled red onion, white balsamic vinegar, and fresh oregano is a precise balance between sweetness and acidity, with depth coming from the roasting. NIS 54. Alongside it, roasted and pickled peppers with Hameiri cheese and oregano is a small but sharp dish, delivering concentrated flavors and disappearing quickly from the table. NIS 29.

Alongside the regular menu, specials occasionally appear. When we visited, there was a seared sea bass fillet in a fish stock, orange, and chili sauce - a relatively light dish that fits well with the overall line. NIS 69. Desserts follow the same language. The tiramisu, one of the highlights, is built from layers of mascarpone, Marsala wine, and Amaretto liqueur, without unnecessary embellishment. Next to it, a yogurt mousse with lemon ganache and pine nuts offers a light and precise finish. NIS 44 per dish.

The drink menu includes wines by the glass or bottle, alongside classic cocktails such as Negroni and Aperol Spritz - again, without trying too hard to innovate.

Erel’s move to open another restaurant opposite his strongest business might seem, at first glance, like an invitation for internal competition. In practice, it is a systematic construction of a culinary complex that generates a constant flow of customers and strengthens the entire market. The venues do not compete - they complement one another.

Even during wartime, when the market was empty of visitors, both the Thai and the Italian continued to operate. Their proximity to protected spaces made this possible, and the approach was clear: To maintain continuity, staff, and activity even within an unstable reality.

We arrived on a Wednesday, just before the ceasefire. The market had not yet filled up, but there was already a sense of movement - people looking for a moment to breathe between sirens. Within this reality, The Italian in the Market manages to create a precise, effortless experience: Clean food, a lively place, and a concept that knows exactly what it wants to be.

Perhaps it is Shay Erel’s choice to create competition for his own strongest business, or perhaps it is simply a deep understanding of the audience and the space in which he operates. Either way, it works. I thoroughly enjoyed the meal, and this is definitely a restaurant worth returning to.

3 Lunz St., Haifa. No phone, no reservations, and no deliveries.

Sunday–Thursday 12:00–22:00 (kitchen closed between 16:30–18:00), Friday 12:00–16:00. Not kosher.