Rediscovering HaPizza: Neapolitan pizza and Italian fare in Tel Aviv - review

Sometimes, instead of looking for the next big thing, it’s more surprising and satisfying to go with an old standby, albeit one with a major facelift.

Last month, the corner eatery on a busy intersection that typifies Tel Aviv introduced a new  expanded menu that, while still offering the same high-quality pizza, has branched out into an array of reasonably priced Italian delicacies and pasta-based dishes, prepared onsite with bold finesse. It has also entered the nightlife market, offering a selection of high-quality wines, cocktails, and trendy chasers to top off or enhance the meal.

Our bubbly and enthusiastic server made a number of suggestions, which we gladly accepted. The Ricotta Gnocchi in cherry tomato butter, Parmesan cheese, garlic, and mushrooms (NIS 59) was delicate and delicious.

Likewise the Eggplant Caprese, consisting of roasted eggplant with sliced mozzarella, spicy chili pepper, basil oil, yogurt, and lemon juice (NIS 49), which we mopped up with the soft house focaccia (NIS 9).

There’s a variety of fresh, ample salads on offer (NIS 68), such as Caprese and Champignon; Tuna; Caesar; Kashkaval Cheese and Tahini; and our Greek Salad, which overflowed and provided a refreshing contrast to the savory dishes that came before and after.

WE COULDN’T pass up the signature pizza that the restaurant built its name on, so the Crema Tartufo – truffle paste, portobello mushrooms, leek, a touch of cream, basil, mozzarella, and Parmesan (NIS 82) – was the perfect introduction.

Soft and with a fluffy crust, it was simply impossible to stop until the whole pie was gone. Each pie is big enough for two to share. Others to watch out for include the Genova – olive oil, roasted tomatoes, goat cheese, mozzarella, pesto (NIS 78); and The ’70s – tomato sauce, mozzarella, oregano, Kalamata olives, Parmesan, with or without chili pepper (NIS 76).

We could have stopped there, but pasta awaited, and the one dish that I chose specifically was the enticing-sounding  Fettuccine Smoked Salmon & Asparagus – cream, red onion, garlic, butter, white wine, Parmesan, and chives – (NIS 88). It was everything one could hope for with those special ingredients.

But next time, we may have to go for one of the homemade ravioli dishes, such as Spinach and Ricotta or Sweet Potato and Onion (each NIS 83) or the Pappardelle Rosa Artichoke – tomato sauce, cream, garlic, Italian artichoke, and chives (NIS 79).

How can you top off an exquisite Italian meal without a double espresso and a selection from the dessert menu, such as Tiramisu – mascarpone cream with espresso-soaked ladyfingers (NIS 47), which matched the level of the rest of the evening. The Calzone Dolce, filled with Nutella or vegan halva (NIS 44) was actually a little too sweet, and the dough was a little difficult to cut.

Despite that small setback, the meal was a resounding success, and a long walk on the Tel Aviv streets was the only way to work off the calorie festival.

HaPizza features only kosher, dairy products, but it opens at 5 p.m. on Saturday nights, so it doesn’t have a kashrut certificate. During its 20th anniversary, it’s offering 10% off the entire menu between noon to 4 p.m., and there’s a 1+1 on beer and cocktails during the 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. daily happy hour. And throughout the day, a glass of red or white wine goes for NIS 24, and chasers and shots for NIS 15.

I know that the next time I crave pasta or pizza in Tel Aviv, the place I’ll be headed for is HaPizza.