Ramadan ‘kareem’ in the Old City

Even though people fast during the day, on Ramadan it is traditional to be festive at night and pack in all manner of delectable foods, particularly sweets.

By SETH J. FRANTZMAN
Ramadan in the old city of Jerusalem (photo credit: SETH J. FRANTZMAN)
Ramadan in the old city of Jerusalem
(photo credit: SETH J. FRANTZMAN)
‘Come, taste the corn.” “No, wait. Come have some sweets.” “Try this orange juice!” The Old City was exploding with flavors, colors, lights, children and festivities this week to celebrate the first days of Ramadan. The municipality had allowed lights to be strung from Damascus Gate, creating a sort of canopy over the entrance to this great Ottoman-era entrance way.
Throughout the Muslim Quarter, which is the largest of the four quarters of the Old City, alleyways and main thoroughfares were transformed from the teeming markets they usually are to a festive holiday atmosphere. It is Jerusalem as it is rarely seen.
Yet the holy city is on edge. Earlier on Sunday, a 20-year-old Palestinian from a village near Hebron had stabbed a Border Policeman on the street overlooking Damascus Gate. As of press time, the policeman and his assailant were both in critical condition. Jerusalem Mayor Nir Barkat went to the scene of the stabbing and said that people should pray for the policeman’s recovery, but we “will continue in our normal routine.”
Historically, Ramadan is a month of tensions, but Israel usually grants permits to hundreds from Gaza and thousands from the West Bank to enter Jerusalem to visit the Temple Mount. On Sunday night many young men, some in traditional long religious gowns and wearing Muslim skullcaps, wandered the streets.
Children sold plastic guns, and men stuffed their faces with candy. Even though people fast during the day, on Ramadan it is traditional to be festive at night and pack in all manner of delectable foods, particularly sweets.
The light displays were creative. Near Lion’s Gate, giant white orbs danced in the air with varying Arabic names of God on them. And in another alley, the word “Allah” was lit up in a variety of colors. Tourists also mingled among the people. But by midnight there were reports of clashes with police, and the heavy presence of Border Police moved in to clear some of the people off the streets in east Jerusalem.