After years of light rail construction works slowing down the pace of Jerusalem Boulevard in Jaffa, a certain awakening was noted in the past year, mainly in the culinary field. However, it seems that the current pandemic has once again put a brake on things, and many old places look deserted. In order to revive the street and contribute to the community, a number of food initiatives have recently emerged, emphasizing accessibility to the culinary gems of Jaffa, known only to the city's veterans.
One of these initiatives is led by Mika Shimonov, a chef and history teacher. Mika is the type of woman who comes to mind when thinking of strong and successful women, who do not let anything stop them - not even a difficult back surgery. She is self-taught in the field of food, and has always spent time in the kitchen. She had a restaurant for half a year, also worked in the field on a ship, and even hosted guests for chef's dinners in her home salon, which was until recently in the same place, on the boulevard.
Mika's connection to the world of food is total, and in routine days she guides food tours in Georgia and Naples. Three months ago, while she was staying in Greece, she felt a leg numbness. A few hours later, she was rushed to emergency surgery due to a herniated disc. Since then she has been travelling among sublets around the country, with nostalgia for her old apartment in Jaffa.
Micah was born and raised in Jerusalem until the age of 3. Her family decided to move to Tel Aviv, and she fell in love with the charm of Jaffa and the boulevard. She speaks nostalgically about the Jaffa of the past. When planning the tour, it was important for her to focus on the history of the boulevard and its development over the decades.
Jerusalem Boulevard has undergone many changes in recent years. It was established in 1915 by Haim Bek, the Ottoman military governor stationed in Jaffa. It was built parallel to Jaffa Street, dividing the city from the orchards of Jaffa in the south to the heart of the city. For three years, the boulevard was called Jamal Pasha Boulevard, named after the Ottoman ruler, but with the Ottomans leaving the land, its name was changed to King George Boulevard. After the establishment of the state, its name was changed again, this time to Boulevard 1, until its current name was decided upon, named after the capital city.
In the early years of the state, they tried to give it a European character, and along it theaters, restaurants, and cinemas were built, but as one walks along it today, they find that none of these buildings are active anymore. Instead, the boulevard offers a nostalgic tour, among culinary institutions that refuse to disappear. As the light rail provides background sounds, Micah stands in the middle of the boulevard and tries to describe its charm. Later, she leads to her first stop on the tour - "Gueta", a Tripolitan restaurant offering comforting homemade food. The menu of "Gueta" includes dishes served with couscous, such as Mafrum, meat stew with potatoes, Hraime, stuffed vegetables, and kebabs. If I thought we would start the tour calmly, we were greeted with couscous with liver and a fresh carrot salad next to a skewer of lamb, to open up the heart and stomach.
The story of "Gueta" is the story of the Boulevard in my eyes, a veteran place that survived despite everything. Initially, "Gueta" opened as an unsuccessful Italian restaurant, then turned into a French cuisine kitchen, which also did not succeed, until Rafi Gueta sat in his mother's kitchen and received enlightenment - to open a traditional Tripolitan kitchen. A few decades ago, the trend of authentic homemade kitchens was not on the horizon, but he decided to go for his mother's winning food and opened a successful restaurant that still operates today. 6 Jerusalem Boulevard, Jaffa.
Second stop: "The Grape Man"
In a beautiful building right next to the Boulevard, you will find "The Grape Man" - at first glance, a wine shop, at second glance, a whole world for wine lovers. The place was opened in the late 90s by Haim Gan, a respected wine man, and the shop went through several transformations until it reached its current location. The magic of the place lies in the vast variety of Israeli wines, from the smallest boutique wineries to the largest ones. Alongside them, wines collected from around the world shine as well. In addition to an impressive wine collection, the place also hosts events, competitions, workshops, and wine tastings. Wine tastings are usually held on Thursdays and Fridays, costing NIS 100 per participant - so it is recommended to check. 4 Shlomo Street, Tel Aviv.
Third stop: "Fly Fish"
It is impossible to talk about Jaffa's culinary scene and ignore one of its important treasures - fish. Throughout Jaffa, there are many fish shops that stand out, one of them being "FLY FISH", located a few steps from Jerusalem Boulevard. Hanan Abad opened the shop seven years ago. The decision to open a fish shop in Jaffa was made after years of working in the field, in restaurants, and fish factories. In the shop, he offers fresh fish that can be bought on-site or ordered to your home. When we met with Hanan, he served us one of his favorite dishes - Sayadiya (in Arabic, a fisherman is a Sayid) - a kind of fish-based dish, consisting of a fish spine, monkfish heads, and a fish fillet. In short, a delight for fish lovers. 17 Shlomo Street, Tel Aviv.
Fourth Stop: "Hertzl's Inn"
To stroll along the boulevard without stopping at one of its legendary institutions is impossible, so the next stop is "Hertzl's Inn." A small place that has fed many people over the years. Hertzl established the inn right after his release from the army, and to this day, he controls everything that comes out of the kitchen. You can find shawarma, kebabs, falafel, and Eastern-style dishes like kubbeh, soups, and more. Jerusalem Boulevard 67, Jaffa.
Fifth Stop: "Lyon's Bakery"
And since we're already in Jaffa, we must make a short visit to "Lyon's Bakery", a place located right on the seam between the boulevard and the flea market. There you can taste authentic Bulgarian Filo Bourekas or excellent water Bourekas. Here you can also hear the story of Grandma Julie, who came to the country from Bulgaria and brought with her the secrets of filo dough. During your visit to "Lyon's", you can also see a short demonstration of using filo sheets, to avoid carbohydrates and enjoy an Ayran drink. Oley Zion 17, Jaffa.
Sixth Stop: "Avner's Delicatessen"
If you crave smoked fish or Lutenica spread (Bulgarian red pepper spread), you must make a quick stop at "Avner's Delicatessen". The deli, which offers flavors from the Balkan kitchen and surroundings, was established by two veteran friends - Avner Sweet and Rami Cohen. Now you will only find Avner, sitting with a welcoming smile behind the salad-filled display case. The deli is no less than a culinary institution, but like many businesses, it underwent changes during the construction of the light rail, changes that led to Rami's departure from the business. However, it seems that nothing discourages Avner, not even the relatively slow movement of tourists on the boulevard during the war period, and he patiently explains about every cheese, salad, or pickled fish. According to him, the advantage is that everything is fresh and without preservatives. Here you will find different types of olives, cheeses, pickles, salads, and on weekends various vegetable patties, latkes, and more. Jerusalem Boulevard 70, Jaffa.
Seventh Station: "Meir's Nuts"
Our last stop is at one of the oldest institutions on the street - "Meir's Nuts". This is a local gem whose name has even reached the most remote corners of the country, all thanks to the traditional roasting method in copper pots and unique flavors that can no longer be found. The store, which offers nuts, spices, and dried fruits, was established in 1949 by the young and ambitious Israel, and today it is already run by the third and fourth generation of the Azulai family.
The family members who welcome us are proud that they prepare everything themselves, grinding and roasting in place. Unlike other spice shops, here you won't receive a vast tray full of nuts, everything is hidden in large tin containers to preserve freshness. Additionally, they proudly talk about their excellent sunflower brittle called "Maspan", made with traditional approach in a pot brought from Bulgaria.
They also mention that only at their place you can find Quasquos - a roasted sunflower kernel considered a delicacy, and its price can reach NIS 280 per kilogram. The reason for the high price, gladly paid by young and elder Balkan natives, is its production method. The Quasquos is hidden inside the sunflower kernel and needs to be cracked and peeled, then soaked in water for a week, only then it is manually peeled and cleaned.
In short, this is an excellent place to stop by, especially before the weekend, and stock up on pastries, spices, and quality pickles. Jerusalem Blvd 62, Jaffa.
Tours with Mika - Price: NIS 260 per person, lasts about three hours, in groups of 12-20 people, but you can also sign up individually or in other arrangements. Register through the website Mikafoodart.com, or via WhatsApp at 050-8432843.