Lately, every fish that is slightly spicy and slightly red has been called Chraime (Chraimi). Now, I decided to put an end to the confusion and organize the many fish dishes served in the kitchens of different communities.
The Ashkenazi kitchen is known for gefilte fish, airy fish patties. It comes in two different versions. In one version, the patties are cooked in fish broth, and in the other, fish slices are stuffed with minced fish and cooked in fish broth.
In the Moroccan kitchen, the spicy fish dish appears in a variety of versions. The stew is served at Friday night or Saturday lunch, and it has a truly royal aura. At first glance, the preparation seems complicated, but it is actually simple, with almost no cooking steps. The stew is assembled directly in the pot, what is called “cold cooking,” not over a flame. Only at the end is the pot placed over medium-low heat, and in about 10 minutes a miracle happens as a wonderful aroma spreads throughout the house, irresistible to anyone.
The base of the stew consists of garlic, coriander, parsley, hot peppers, and of course, fish - any beloved type. Some include only dried hot peppers, others mix in green peppers, and some add bell peppers as well. To reduce the spiciness, you can use fewer peppers and add slices of preserved lemons, carrots, or even potatoes. The original recipe uses a generous amount of oil, hot and sweet red pepper, and sometimes a little turmeric. Those who do not like coriander can replace it with parsley, or combine the two, with a larger amount of parsley.
In the Tunisian kitchen, the fish stew includes rings of green peppers, bell peppers, hot peppers, or a spicy harissa paste, along with a small addition of parsley, onion, and garlic. Often, crushed tomatoes or tomato paste and lemon juice are added, and the sauce is reduced well, giving the dish a concentrated spicy flavor.
Now we come to Chraime (Chraimi), the fish dish from the Tripolitanian kitchen. Please do not confuse it with the spicy fish from the Moroccan kitchen. These are two different dishes in color, flavor, and appearance, with only one thing in common: They are both spicy. Chraime has many variations of preparation, differing from home to home, family to family, with everyone swearing that their version is the best. The skill of the Tripolitanian cook is reflected in the quality of the Chraime, its texture, color, and especially its spiciness, the level of heat.
Let’s be honest, preparing Chraime is neither complicated nor difficult. With experience, one learns to achieve the correct texture and flavor. In all versions, the basic principle remains: The sauce is thick and very spicy. Cooking starts with the sauce to reduce and concentrate the flavors, and only then are the fish added. Chraime is traditionally made with a fish known in colloquial Arabic as Shula and in Hebrew as intias, but it is also excellent with mullet, grouper, or even a thick, meaty cut of Nile perch.
Chraime is usually served with plenty of bread, black or white. The fish “swims” in a rich, spicy red sauce, and part of the enjoyment is dipping the bread into the spicy sauce. The dish is also served with half a lemon, squeezed over the fish just before eating, and a jug of water to help manage the spiciness.
Tripolitanian Chraime / Fish in Spicy Sauce
Ingredients (6–8 servings):
• 2 tbsp hot red pepper
• 2½ tbsp sweet red pepper
• ½ tbsp salt
• 16 crushed garlic cloves
• 2½ cups water
• ½ cup oil
• 150 g tomato paste
• 1 tbsp ground cumin
• 1 tsp ground caraway
• Juice of 1 large lemon
• 6–8 fish servings (mullet, intias, grouper, Nile perch, or other), cleaned, washed, and drained
Preparation:
In a medium bowl, combine the hot and sweet red peppers, salt, garlic, and 1 cup of water to form a uniform mixture. Pour the oil into a wide, shallow pot, add the spice mixture, stir, and place over medium heat. Cook for 2–3 minutes, cover the pot, and continue cooking for another 3 minutes until the sauce begins to reduce.
Add the tomato paste and another cup of water, stir, and cook for 5–7 minutes. Add cumin, caraway, lemon juice, and the remaining water, stir, and bring to a boil. Arrange the fish in the sauce and gently shake the pot so the sauce coats the fish evenly. Cover and continue cooking for about half an hour until the sauce is thick and the fish is cooked. Serve hot with fresh bread.
Difficulty level: Medium
Preparation time: About 40 minutes
Dish type: Parve
Spicy and Peppery Fish from the Moroccan Kitchen
Ingredients (6–8 servings):
• 8 slices of grouper, mullet, or Nile perch
• ½ tsp coarse salt
• 3 green hot peppers
• 5 large red hot peppers, dried (or fresh)
• 8 sliced garlic cloves
• 15 chopped coriander stems
• 15 chopped parsley stems
• 1½ tbsp hot paprika
• 1 tbsp sweet red pepper
• ½ tsp salt
• ½ tbsp turmeric
• ¾ cup oil
• 1 cup water
Preparation:
Wash the fish slices well and sprinkle with coarse salt. Let sit for 15 minutes and rinse. Cut the peppers lengthwise, remove seeds, and wash well. Scatter the peppers and half the garlic and herbs at the bottom of the dish. Arrange the fish slices on top and sprinkle the remaining garlic and herbs. Mix the spices, oil, and water in a small bowl and pour over the fish. Gently shake so the liquid covers the fish evenly. Cover and cook over medium heat for about 30 minutes. Shake the pot again to coat the fish. Cook for another 10 minutes.
Difficulty level: Easy
Preparation time: About 50 minutes
Dish type: Parve
Spicy Fish from the Tunisian Kitchen
Ingredients (6–8 servings):
• 6–8 fish portions (grouper, mullet, Nile perch, or other)
• 1 tsp salt
• 2 green hot peppers
• 1 sliced green pepper
• 1 bell pepper
• 1 onion
• 6 chopped parsley stems
• 4 sliced garlic cloves
• ½ cup oil
• ½–1 tsp turmeric
• 2 tbsp lemon juice
• ½–1 tbsp hot harissa
• 1 tsp sweet red pepper (paprika)
• 1 tbsp tomato paste
• ½ tsp salt
• ½ tsp ground black pepper
• 1 cup water
Preparation:
Wash the fish portions well and sprinkle with salt. Let sit for 15 minutes. Rinse thoroughly and pat dry with paper towels. Remove pepper and bell pepper tops, cut into thin rings or lengthwise strips, remove seeds, and wash. Chop the onion finely. Arrange the peppers at the bottom of a wide, shallow pot. Scatter the onion, parsley, and garlic over them, then arrange the fish portions on top.
In a medium bowl, mix oil, turmeric, lemon juice, harissa, sweet red pepper, tomato paste, salt, black pepper, and water until smooth. Pour over and around the fish. Cover and cook over medium heat for about 30 minutes.
Difficulty level: Easy
Preparation time: About 45 minutes
Dish type: Parve
Pascal’s Tips for Preparing Fish:
• Make sure to use fresh fish: They should have firm, shiny skin. The color usually varies depending on the type of fish - gray to black - and the flesh color ranges from pale pink to deep red.
• Serve every fish dish with lemon - a winning combination that works wonders.
• Preparing fish for children? Use boneless varieties, such as sole or high-quality Nile perch.
• Before cooking, sprinkle coarse salt and drizzle lemon juice over the fish. Let sit for half an hour to neutralize odors.
• To reduce spiciness, add slices from two tomatoes, placing them over the peppers at the bottom of the pot.
• Nile perch is sold in markets in three quality grades. Choose the highest grade for thick, meaty portions. Its price, accordingly, is relatively high.