Qumran: The magic of Moishik in Tel Aviv - restaurant review

The decor of the restaurant has some visual elements to justify the name – a few stone-like embellishments on the walls, and a mural of cave dwellers painted on a brick-colored wall.

But for the most part, it’s a modern, streamlined place that offers not just kosher dining but a cabaret later in the evening for the diners’ enjoyment. We booked our table for 7 p.m., which we were told was when the restaurant opens, only to be told when we arrived that it opens at 7:30 p.m. and that we would have to wait.

To compensate for this annoyance, we decided to treat ourselves to a cocktail, and these were good enough to overcome any residual resentment. My choice was vodka-based, my dining companion’s whiskey, and neither of them stinted on the hard stuff, which greatly improved our general mood.

The first item to arrive at our table was a crusty loaf with an oil and vinegar dip (NIS 48). We tried not to devour the whole thing, as we knew there would be many more courses to come.

Our first dish was Jerusalem artichoke with tortellini, a very welcome dish with a generous amount of the vegetable and a rich creamy sauce (NIS 125). We tucked into this with abandon.

Next to arrive was a huge salad with some very interesting and unusual features. It had strawberries, a truffle-flavored “cheese,” kohlrabi slices, a very good vinaigrette, and an almond garnish. Full marks for the salad (NIS 96).

I really loved the third course – ceviche of finely chopped tomatoes and cucumbers with bits of raw tuna here and there.

The main course was a plate of fried sea bream served on gnocchi with an unusual sauce that contained chestnuts (NIS 188). It was very good, and the bits of chestnut added a whole new dimension to the dish.

By this time, we were beginning to feel satiated, but there was more on the way. Our very pleasant waitress brought a dish of beef carpaccio, garnished with white sauce and almonds. Quite a thing of beauty that also tasted great (NIS 179).

The next main course was a dish of fresh grouper, a solid sea fish, battered and deep-fried with a very lemony dressing, obviously designed to enhance the fish (NIS 258).

There’s a famous English dessert called Eton Mess. This should be called Moishik’s Mess – a strange mix of dark chocolate filled with cream, along with some cookies and hazelnuts thrown in for good measure (NIS 220).

We couldn’t really do it justice, having eaten so much. Let’s just say it’s always good to end a meal with something sweet. My companion also enjoyed a good, strong espresso before we embarked on the long journey home.

The prices do seem high, but don’t forget they include the evening’s entertainment, starting at 9 p.m. It’s rumored to include belly dancers and carries on until well past our bedtime.