Rabbi Moshe Sebbag sees the pages of history in the bricks-and-mortar of his synagogue. Walking through the Grand Synagogue of Paris, his eyes eagerly thumbed through the pages as he explained the meaning of each monument, the arcane knowledge of the architecture. Next to the stone facade memorial commemorating Jewish veterans of World War One is a gazebo designed by Gustave Eiffel, who also built the famed eponymous tower.
The synagogue, Sebbag enthusiastically detailed, was the place that the falsely accused French military officer Richard Dreyfus was wed, and was visited by Theodor Herzl when he wrote his seminal work The Jewish State. The synagogue’s chambers welcomed almost every visiting Israeli prime minister and president since Herzl’s vision came to fruition. When local politicians held Holocaust memorial services, they were at Sebbag’s storied shul.
Sebbag said that the history of the synagogues shows how the Jews have always been a part of the history of Paris. Be it Dreyfus or former prime minister Leon Blum, the history of French Jews was the history of France, Sebbag explained, and the history of France was the history of French Jews -- In his eyes there was no division to be made.“The people that have prayed here have been central to France,” said Sebbag.
Yet as the pages of history quickly turn, Sebbag admits that antisemitism, unassimilated immigrant populations, and challenges to French national identity render the next chapters uncertain.
Sebbag pondered the question of rising antisemitism in his study, to the backdrop of a French, European Union, and Israeli flag. He didn’t agree with the perception Jew-hatred had become so rife that one couldn’t walk down the street without encountering antisemitism -- But acknowledged that his sense was informed by a false sense of security created by all the precautions taken. Recently, an orthodox Jewish drum player from a band that played at a Jewish Agency and Immigration Ministry event at the synagogue was met with shouts of “Allahu akbar” as he went about his business in the city of light.
Sebbag mused that perhaps at times he downplayed antisemitism because he is a community leader and doesn’t want to panic his congregants, but noted that “all the security is not a normal life.”
There is a permanent armed Gendarmerie in front of the holy site, reinforced by police and cordoned off streets when there are major Jewish events. To enter the synagogue, one needs to go through a security check, presenting identification. Parents can’t bring their children to school without extensive security, said the rabbi. Many don’t walk around as identifiable Jews, covering their heads with hats and tucking in religious garments. Sebbag’s wife is a pediatrician at a hospital, and doesn’t tell anyone what her husband does. In the wake of the October 7 Massacre, colleagues have asked her if her family is okay, but she actively avoids conversations on the topic.
Israelite Consistory of Marseille President and Central Consistory of France Vice President Michel Cohen Tenoudji told The Jerusalem Post that since October 7 the climate had changed to become more tense for Jews in the southern port city, though in general the relationship has “always been peaceful between different religious communities.”
Marseille has followed the same trend as the rest of the country, said Tenoudji, with multiplying antisemitic incidents. He said that community members had been threatened and spat at.
The Great Synagogue of Marseille was vandalized with graffiti last Wednesday during a lecture by philosopher Bernard-Henri Lévy. Vandals graffitied “free Gaza” on the front of the synagogue and a nearby building, and erected a Palestinian flag. Security removed the flag and graffiti, and informed the police. Tenoudji said that the community was surprised and “choked” by the vandalism.
“A new limit was reached in Marseille regarding the expression of antisemitism,” said Tenoudji.
Despite the shock, the philosopher had come prepared. Levy had come to the event with six security guards.
“In our country, which is the birthplace of human rights, it is unbearable that a philosopher has to cope with such a situation,” said Tenoudji.
Tenoudji said that since the October 7 pogrom, the Consistory was in constant touch with the police, and praised the Chief of Police for doing his best to secure Jewish institutions and keep the community apprised of potential dangers.
Sebbag had also praised the authorities for their work in protecting the Jewish community. The government understood that French Jews were loyal citizens, and was cracking down on antisemitism and radicals. Tenoudji said that most of the antisemitism being expressed in Marseille was connected to the Israel-Hamas War, an excuse used by extreme Islamists and supported by the left-wing pin France.
“But to be honest the ones who act this way are very active but not really numerous,” said Tenoudji. “Talking about them highlights them, which is useless.”
Sebbag also said that the antisemitism in France was coming mostly from the radical left and Islamists. Antisemitism had a very political element to it -- he estimated that 70% of the people at the anti-Israel protest were left-wing ethnic French, not Arabs or Muslims.
The left political wing in France was not like what it used to be, said Sebbag, tainted by extremist factions obsessed with narratives of colonialism that made the movement hate “not just Israel, but also France.”
Sebbag described antisemitism as a symptom of a great challenge for France, the prospect of a changing identity brought about by unfettered immigration without integration.
Not all other populations integrated like the Jews did, he said. He had noted that every shabbat they prayed for the welfare of the Republic of France.
Many immigrants from across Europe, even from China, immigrate to France and adopted French culture and identity, but there were populations that didn’t. The rabbi stressed the difference between learning the history of the state and learning a history as your own.
Though there is a separation of church and state, Sebbag said that part of French culture was the historical Catholic Christian heritage. Where there was once Catholic sentiments in the ether, there is a more Islamic atmosphere in parts of France, with social pressure to conform to certain associated principles in Muslim dominant areas.
“I’m worried about the future of the European Nations,” Sebbag said, but tempered his concern with musings of how perhaps Europe will become Islamic, but in turn there will be a more modern secular European Islam.
The shifts in national identity brought with it increased antisemitism, “which everyone can see,” and gave more credence to the right-wing which professed to protect French national culture and identity, said Sebbag.
“Many Jews have connected to the Right, but historically it hasn’t always been that way,” said Sebbag.
The rabbi expressed concern that the right could turn around, and in a bid to “punish” Muslims catch Jews in the crossfire by banning ritual slaughter and circumcision.
Sebbag was also worried that France didn’t promote the French people to have families, and to support those who did.
France had a very individualistic society, and not enough considered their responsibilities to the state and family, and the role of the individual within the context of the nation.
For his part, Sebbag worked to strengthen the Parisian Jewish community even as it and the country underwent changes with the passage of history. Historically the Paris city center was a place with many Jews, but many were now further away in suburbs. While once the majority of Jews in France were Ashkenazi like the denomination of the synagogue, they were now mostly Sephardi.
To keep the Synagogue strong, “Our work community-wise is to find how to create added benefits for the community.”
Sebbag maintains a community of 1500 congregants -- most being secular -- With at least 80 people attending the daily prayers, and 150-200 on Shabbat. On Shabbat there were meals served at the synagogue that were well attended. The community maintained a Sunday school, Jewish art programs, trips, Torah study, Talmud study, and pensioners programs.
There were many who turned to the synagogue to help them ensure that their children were taught Jewish traditions. The connection to Israel evidently only grew in strength since the days the father of modern Zionism graced the halls.
The Jewish Agency and Immigration Ministry aliyah event last Sunday saw congregants singing, dancing, and celebrating their historic homeland with an excited fervor. Since October 7, the synagogue has held events with Magen David Adom, ZAKA, the families of hostages, and even the Hapoel Tel Aviv Soccer team.
Sebbag said that because of its history and fame, many people think that its a synagogue for the rich, but “It’s not, it’s open to everyone.”
The rabbi wanted to create a welcome environment. Those that had wandered away from Judaism should be greeted with welcome arms, and to have an intellectual environment where congregants could learn more about their religion and heritage.
Sebbag said that they had everything in Paris for a Jewish life -- plenty of kosher restaurants and stores, Jewish institutions like his synagogue to nourish the soul. Often people ask why French Jews stay despite reports of rising antisemitism. Sebbag said that they have their lives in France, their businesses, and kids’ schools in Paris. They are comfortable, economically secure, with good social benefits. Yet with the challenges to France’s national identity, Sebbag worries that antisemitism and other factors could fundamentally change the fertile conditions for a Jewish life in France.
“Maybe we don’t have a future here,” said Sebbag. “I’m not sure.”
While this was the realist side of him speaking, he said that he also had faith in God that they would be protected and be fruitful.
“We always have hope,” said Sebbag. “France is a nation of hope.”