Israeli restaurant brings a bit of France to customers

Despite our hopes, it seems that international travel will be limited again this summer. So if you’re yearning to visit France, the next best thing is Le Frenchy on the marina in Ashkelon. The restaurant is owned by French couple Eva and Roni Darmon, who came to Israel from Lyon six years ago. The fish and dairy menu is similar to one you can find in cafés all over France, but with one major difference: Le Frenchy is kosher, and the kashrut is even mehadrin.

Eva and Roni designed the menu together and trained three chefs to make the dishes to their specifications. Roni, who does not speak English or Hebrew well, works as a waiter. Eva says the restaurant is his dream, and she is happy to have helped him achieve it.

The restaurant was closed during the last 15 months of the COVID pandemic, and sustained heavy losses like restaurants all over Israel. The menu is only in Hebrew, although the young Israeli waitresses can help with translation if needed. The service, by the way, is very friendly, even if not the most professional. I’ve decided that unless it’s a fine dining establishment, I’ll take friendly service over professional any day.

I recently met a group of friends at the restaurant for Friday brunch. The restaurant is on the second floor above the Ashkelon Marina, with tables outside on a lovely shaded balcony, and inside as well. The restaurant is currently open only for dinner and Friday brunch, so there is no special breakfast menu.

We were able to taste a range of dishes on the extensive menu, including the delicious milkshakes that come with whipped cream and chocolate sauce. (I promise I just took one sip of my husband’s milkshake, so he gets all the calories!)

One example of a typical French dish, Eva said, is the Le Frenchy salad (NIS 64), a bowl of fresh vegetables topped by goat cheese melted on pieces of baguette with a drizzle of honey and balsamic vinegar. Very delicious.

I especially enjoyed the thin-crust pizza. We tried both the pizza margarita (NIS 40), and the forester (NIS 65) which was topped with red peppers, onions, mushrooms and olives.

Among the more unique offerings are the “mukram,” either fried eggplant with tomato sauce and cheese (NIS 69) or the dauphinoise (NIS 69) of potatoes, Alfredo sauce and mozzarella. It was comfort food at its best.

We also discovered a new kosher wine from France: a white blend of Viognier and Chenin Blanc from Maison Sarela in the Languedoc. It was a lovely blend and a perfect accompaniment to all of the rich dishes.

The one disappointment was the coffee. It was far too weak, but that was easily fixed with extra espresso. We didn’t have time for dessert, but that’s definitely on the agenda for my next visit.