The veteran Jerusalem restaurant, Joy, which was opened in 2003 in the German Colony by Shlomi Dahan, Alon Shabtai, and Aviram Dotan, is celebrating its 20th birthday.
Joy is currently located Mamilla Mall, where it moved in 2010, strategically located just far enough from the crowd so the sound of tourists doesn’t interrupt the restaurant’s jazzy atmosphere.
The restaurant has changed its clothes over the years, starting with simple folk cuisine, to more complex, innovative dishes. Joy has benefited from the fine touch of chef Artur Borlaka, who has grown under the wing of chef Ezra Kedem and has managed Joy’s kitchen for the past six years.
In February, the restaurant put its money where its mouth is by wrapping up NIS 2 million worth of an interior overhaul, and a redesign of the menu, now shaping up like a classic European bistro.
Joy’s delicious mehadrin dishes include tried and true kebab siniyehs and honey-glazed spring chicken, but it is actually in Joy’s fish where the most impressive spark of creativity and thought shines through.
Its citrusy sea-fish crudo, bream tartare and fresh red tuna sashimi make up a solid starters trio.
The tartare is laid on top of a fluffy, lightly toasted brioche, and harmonizes well with its marinade, sprouts, and radish.
The real gem of Joy’s menu is the sashimi. Its meaty intensity is surrounded by eggplant, garlic fries, and heavy duty za’atar herbs, working together to create a unique and vibrant flavor combination. The dish is certainly evidence of a more refined and innovative Joy. The tartare and sashimi go for NIS 64 and NIS 76, respectively.
The rest of the starter menu offers a variety of delectable dishes. Quite possibly, too much of a variety presents the paradox of choice. From focaccia to baos, and ravioli to cigars, Joy might need to do some stocktaking and figure out what really brings people the most joy.
For cocktails, Joy offers an intriguing mix of drink options. The Green Gin for example, a foamy cucumber lime and herb based concoction, tasted like a drink you’d order on a luxury spa getaway.
Joy’s heavy hitters of course remain their gorgeous MR beef fillet medallions, paired with mushrooms and cabbage, and accompanied by a red wine demi-glace and bone marrow (NIS 192). Though delicious, this dish was served resting on a bed of mashed potatoes that frankly weren’t creamy enough (or warm enough, for that matter).
The other meat-dish we ordered was the well flavored, sweet, bone-in asado short ribs. Of course the bone-in being Joy’s way of showing off, as the bone was discarded quickly after the incredibly tender meat fell right off of it (NIS 158). Paired up this time with a delicious demi-glace sauce, mushrooms, chestnuts, and the same cool mashed potatoes. As an avid watcher of professional competitive eaters, sometimes estimating sizes can be tricky, but I can confidently say you get the amount you pay for with the pricey meat dishes.
Desserts included a wonderful Jerusalem-style ice cream, with classic twists such as a halva, peanuts, and tahini sauce, and a lemon tart with a green lime crumble powder and creme patisserie.
The restaurant was practically closed after the October 7th massacre for a few months, with half of its workers taking furlough. After a period of having volunteers cook meals for IDF soldiers, the restaurant is now back on track, with more and more local visitors and tourists coming to aid the country’s economy. What could be better than spreading some Joy around at this difficult time?!
Joy Mamilla Rd. 13 at the Mamilla Mall. Telephone: 02-5020555. Kashrut: Mehadrin Beit Yosef.The writer was a guest of the restaurant.