Domino’s pizza lovers in Israel can now treat themselves to a new variation of pies under the moniker: Oh Mammi. That’s because the new line of three pizzas is the brainchild of celeb mother-daughter chef duo Nira and Ruthie Rousso. Nira’s cookbooks are in virtually every Israeli household and her daughter, Ruthie, has followed in her footsteps.
Last week, an invited crowd of mother-daughter duos and social media influencers gathered in the Florentin neighborhood of Tel Aviv, to watch the two chefs make the pizzas and to taste them afterwards.
Each pie features toppings sourced from local Israeli agriculture that are signature to the summer season. Although all the ingredients are kosher, the pizza chain doesn’t have a kashrut certificate since some of their other offerings are not kosher.
Supporting local agriculture and a combination of flavors
“Local produce is valuable in terms of the national ‘heart power,’ when you support local agriculture you support the national economics system,” Ruthie, the younger Rousso, told the Post. “You support food security, something that has been becoming very important in every place in the world.”
The pizzas came one-by-one as the Ruosso’s prepped and loaded them into the oven. Each pie had a different base ingredient: Tomato, mushroom or grape.
“The flavors are based on the classics but the diversification of toppings takes them one step forward.” Ruthie Ruosso said.
The tomato pizza, with a secret spice
First came the tomato: a blend of local, “summer” tomatoes of a red and yellow variety with goat cheese, walnuts and a “secret spice” that seemed to include balsamic vinegar and olives among various ground spices.
Bursting with freshness, this pie is a symphony of seasonal flavors. The tomatoes offer a juicy, tangy sweetness that is well complemented by the salty taste and creamy, earthy feel of the cheese. The olives add a touch of bitterness.
But it’s the “secret spice” that steals the show, as the acidic, sharp vinegar clashes beautifully with the full-bodied crunchiness of the walnuts. This first pizza brought a level of culinary intrigue that lived up to the Rousso’s prominent status within the Israeli food scene. It also set a standard that the pie’s that followed would have a hard time living up to.
The 'brown mushroom' and grape pizza pies
Next, the chefs put out a “brown mushroom” pie. This pizza features several types of mushroom, whose earthiness pairs nicely with a sweet onion confit. Two cheeses, goat and gouda, add much-needed saltiness and texture while a creamy, ranch-like sauce gives the pizza a rich, heavy feel. Flecks of parsley provide a herbal burst that relieves the palate of the slice’s dense flavor.
It’s certainly a tasty slice, but the weight of each bite calls into question whether this pie is too heavy to be included on a roster of “summer pizzas,” which should be light and vibrant.
The final and most creative pizza features grapes from Israeli vineyards, walnuts and assorted parmesan cheeses. Aesthetically, this slice is a testament to the Ruossos’ ingenuity, a risk-taking mentality that defines them as pioneers of a modern Israeli cuisine. But after taking a bite, it also offers clarity as to why grapes have never quite caught on as a pizza topping.
The intensity of the parmesan doesn’t quite align with the candy-like sweetness of the grapes, whose mushy, moist texture feels awkward next to the walnuts. It’s worth noting that the grape-based pizza is also made in a style with a salami topping, which may earn it some redemption.
Appealing to the 'foodies'
“We are trying to be more appealing to the foodies as well as the mass market and when we thought about the Israeli summer, we thought about how we can innovate and bring some new things to our pizzas,” Ifat Goldman, Domino’s chief marketing officer for Israel, said. “We wanted to relate to families.”
The younger Ruosso could not decide on a favorite between the three.
“I really like all three flavors. I react differently to each one of them. The tomato one is very light and refreshing, the grape one still surprises me that it doesn’t feel like dessert and feels like pizza and the mushroom is a classic.”
The pizzas will be rolled out across all menus in Israeli Domino’s starting now for NIS 86.90 per pizza, the same price as all Domino’s mixed pizzas, for the next five or six months, according to Goldman.
Much of the conversation throughout the event focused on the mother-daughter theme of the event. The Ruossos said that food has helped to strengthen their own mother-daughter relationship throughout their lives.
“The collection was inspired by thinking about summer, summer activities and summer people.” Ruthie Ruosso stated. “During summer, there are a lot of gatherings, the kids are at home, and at the same time you’re not necessarily into cooking because that heats the kitchen then you’re hot and grumpy. At least my mom and I feel this way in the summer, so having someone deliver a hot meal, something warm and comforting to eat is a lifesaver in the summer.”
The unconventional ingredients in the pizzas are a strength
Goldman stated that the decision to work with the Ruossos on this line came naturally.
“Nira and Ruthie are very culinary people and they have a lot of knowledge and are very Israeli in their cooking style as well, and that combination just worked for us,” Goldman said.
Both Ruossos, confident that consumers would enjoy the pizzas, highlighted the unconventional ingredients in the pizzas as a strength.
“I know I don’t think normally,” Ruthie Ruosso said. “And I know my mother definitely doesn’t think normally.”